The Portland Grotto

June 17th

Joe and Pam took me to the Portland Grotto for my birthday outing.  I had been wanting to go and it was a perfect day to check it out!  The Grotto is a shrine and botanical garden on 62 acres just outside downtown Portland.  Entry is free but you have to pay to go up to the gardens via a scary elevator to the top of a 110 foot cliff.  We talked about it for awhile, interviewed some volunteers at the sanctuary and finally decided to go - glad we did!  A really beautiful experience and a great way to spend part of my birthday!!

Then, we went to the food trucks for my very most favorite pork bowl! Yummmmm!

Gabi

Beaverton to Astoria via Highway 30 Day Trip

June 12th

We decided to take a day trip up to Astoria - taking Highway 30 along the Columbia River- and JJ was available to come with us - we had a great day!

We drove through Ridgefield, St. Helens, Rainier and several other small towns and stopped at various places to take pictures and just get out of the car!!  We spent some time in Astoria watching the tankers navigate the channel in the river and since we weren't ready to eat lunch - drove back through Seaside.  We walked out to the beach through the tall grass and enjoyed the gorgeous Oregon coastline and then headed on down Highway 26.   Lunch at Camp 18 - great food and an array of logging-related historic artifacts and artwork next to a beautiful stream in the woods - win/win?  YEP!  

Gabi

European Adventure - Paris, France to Beaverton, Oregon

Tuesday - Wednesday-June 4-5th

Checked out of Ocean Paris Roissy Hotel.

 Took hotel shuttle to Charles De Gaulle Airport.

 British Air flight to London Heathrow Airport

Flew over Greenland - pictured in blue due to tinted windows

 Virgin Atlantic flight to Los Angeles

 Checked into Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza.

Checked out of Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza.

 Southwest Airlines flight to Portland Airport

 Tri-Met MAX train to Beaverton... home at last

Joe

European Adventure - Paris, France

Monday,  Tuesday, June 4th 

 Checked out of Hotel le Mouton Blanc at Mont Saint Michel.

 Drove back through Normandy to our hotel at Charles De Gaulle Airport.

 Checked into Ocean Paris Roissy Hotel and returned car to airport location - confusing if you aren't exhausted!

Joe

European Adventure - Mont Saint Michel, France

Sunday, June 2nd

Reluctantly checked out of Les Villas d'Arromanches hotel made our way out of town while waves of D-Day tourists poured in.  The road to Mont Saint Michel continued the pastoral dream of lush fields and quaint villages. 

Mont Saint Michel - checked into Hotel le Mouton Blanc at 4:00pm and the reason I know the  exact time is because a very rude desk clerk cut off all attempts to talk with, "4 O'CLOCK!!!" After sitting outside on the curb for an hour and a half, he grudgingly marched Pam up to an unsatisfactory room in the hotel and gave Gabi and I directions to an unmarked "annex" which  contained a somewhat less unsatisfactory room. It was too hot to close the unscreened window,  so we beguiled the night guessing which species of bird or bat would come sailing in first. A pair of seagulls were nested on a roof 8 feet away and I was sure we would be scooping out guano before the dawn.  However, this place is absolutely magical and the extra time we got to explore it, because we were staying overnight, was worth it all. This granite island has been several things since early in the Christian era, but it ended up as a fortified Catholic abbey, which you can see                      today. It looks like the Disneyland castle from a distance, but it also looks like a castle when you're walking around inside. Fortified walls have holes to shoot arrows through and to pour boiling oil down enemies. Rough stone streets, walls and stairs are hundreds of years old, not recent reproductions. Ancient brick and tile houses cluster around the base in a medieval village. I could go on, but it is gorgeous. Visit if you get the chance, but, maybe don't  spend  the night!  

Joe

European Adventure -Arromanches, France

Friday, May 31st

Checked out of the Hotel Saint Honore.  Took a taxi to the Europcar Rental and picked up a sporty Toyota and headed out of town. This drive through the French countryside was a sheer joy. Some modern towns were seen but the endless green fields, trees, flowers and weathered brick villages were out of a time machine.  It was not confined to this area, either. It was everywhere, until we got back to De Gaulle Airport. 

 Checked into Les Villas d'Arromanches, an 1890 house transformed beautifully into a country inn. Every detail was tastefully selected to make our stay a pleasure. Our room overlooked a green pasture with sheep and cows peacefully grazing. 

Normandy - our first destination was the D-Day beaches on the Normandy coast. June 6th would be the 75th anniversary of the D-Day Landings and tourists (and Presidents Macron and Trump) were gathering to commemorate that bloody but glorious event.  

D-Day Beaches tour by history buff Elena (Lena) who is part of the Tours by Locals network. Lena  met us at our hotel and acted as navigator and narrator while Gabi drove. She had a folder of  materials on what was planned, what actually happened and showed us the locations, pillboxes, fortifications, bomb craters, gun emplacements, cliffs, beaches, abandoned landing craft, etc. All this was being told while restored army jeeps, personnel carriers, artillery and uniformed soldiers each of the Allied Forces were passing by or parked in rowdy gangs, getting ready for the anniversary.

Joe

European Adventure - Paris, France

Thursday, May 30th

The Louvre - After buying a forgettable hotel breakfast, Pam said she was sick and couldn't go to the Louvre with us, so Gabi and I sallied forth down the Rue de Rivoli. Three "college students"  accosted us  with "petitions" to sign which were supposed to distract us from them unzipping Gabi's backpack. Her timely shriek dampened their spirits and they disappeared before any gendarmes could arrive. We continued on, shaken but determined not to waste our skip-the-line  passes.  We entered the museum grounds and asked directions to the skip-the-line (elite)waiting line. It  was as long as the non-elite line this early in the morning, but, based on some mystic formula we got in before most of the cheap liners. I was, again, astonished by the buildings, decor and presentation of room after room of masterpieces (or near masterpieces). We hunted down  the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, and other legendary art works, all the while passing  paintings and sculptures that people come around the world to see.

Joe

European Adventure - Paris, France

Wednesday, May 29th

Next morning, we checked out of the Michelangelo and took a taxi to Milan's Linate Airport.  Our Air France flight took us to Charles De Gaulle Airport outside Paris, France (woohoo!).   A taxi took us to the Hotel Saint Honore, near the Louvre. This hotel was more like our first Rome hotel, The Serena.  We felt like Cinderella waking up after the ball when we remembered Genoa  and Milan. The room was hard to get in and out of. It was small and hot and noisy, a grim welcome to the "City of Light".  Eiffel Tower - We took a taxi to the History Group office to join a group for the tower tour. We were early,  so we went for late lunch at a cafe nearby. At the appointed time, we walked with our guide over  to the Eiffel Tower and presented our skip-the-line passes. This experience wiped all negative feelings I may have had for Paris so far. I had seen this tower all my life and was blown away to see  it in real life. It wasn't just the size and mechanisms or the history it had but the location and ability to see everything Paris is famous for. I was an instant fan boy. I don't know what happened to our  guide. He was trying to tell us something the whole time but nobody was listening. The tower  demanded, and deserved, all our attention. 

Joe

European Adventure - Milan

Tuesday, May 28th

Checked out of the Bristol Palace and headed for our last destination in Italy... Milan.  The drive to Milan was uneventful, though picturesque. We had figured out the toll road stops and payments and nothing was left but to get to Milan and fly to Paris. 

Reached Milan and, after checking into the modern and busy Michelangelo Hotel, we hunted down a gas station to fill the tank and it was, miraculously next door to the Europcar Office where  we had to return our faithful Audi. Our good luck suddenly turned when we tried to park the car.  It was this office's pleasant custom of double-parking return cars on the street in front. After some  misgivings, we double-parked, got our receipt and jumped in a taxi back to the hotel. We then went out to find dinner and, in response to a waiter's coaxing, we dined outdoors at his cafe. Afterwards, we took a quick look around our part of Milan and went to our rooms for our last night in Italy.

Joe

European Adventure - Genoa, Italy

Monday, May 27th

After a sumptuous  Bristol Palace breakfast, we went out to find a hop-on hop-off bus.  The CitySightseeing Bus was what we wanted, but it was covered on the upper deck, so we didn't have the ability to see and take pictures like in the other cities. We hopped off at the Piazza Caricamento, on the waterfront. This is where some main tourist attractions are found as well as a good selection of stores and souvenir shops.  

The Galata Maritime Museum was fascinating to me, because of my interest in naval history and Genoa's history of trade and exploration. I was surprised I had so many pictures from Genoa until I remembered the hundreds of shots I took in this museum.

Joe

European Adventure - Genoa, Italy

Sunday, May 26th      

Checked out of 5 Terre Lodge, and bid arrivederci to Margherita, and hit the road to Genoa.  Drove along the scenic highway inland from the 5 villages without taking pictures. I finally realized they rarely were memorable (or in focus). I started again when we approached Genoa. 

Finally arrived at the Bristol Palace Hotel in Christopher Columbus' home town. Check in was impossible until they told us we had to park on the sidewalk. The hotel was magnificent and our room was on the top floor. I felt like the King of the World!  Via XX (Venti) Settembre Avenue was lined with upscale stores and eateries and, after window  shopping, we crammed into a table at a crowded outdoor cafe across the street. After dinner, we  strolled down the street until we were ready to return to our penthouse rooms.

Joe

European Adventure -Cinque Terre - Manarola, Italy

Saturday, May 25th  

 Corniglia, sadly, we did not visit. It sits on a cliff overlooking the sea and is reached by a long trail of stairs. I wanted to "catch 'em all" but wiser heads prevailed and I just took pictures rom the  boat. Wikipedia says they have a specialty gelato made from honey (... sigh).  

Manarola was our last stop and, after the three villages we already visited, it didn't get our full       attention. We took a water taxi on this final leg giving us an opportunity to see the cliff side villages from the sea - truly magnificent!  It also has the gorgeous houses, streets, alleys, hillsides, cliff sides and harbor, but I only realized what I missed after looking at my hurried pictures as we went from the boat to the train. 

Back in La Spezia, we had a group hug with Antonella, went back to our hotel, which now took on a reflected charm from its nearness to Cinque Terre.     

Joe 

European Adventure - Cinque Terre - Monterosso, Italy

Saturday, May 25th  

As each train brought more tourists, we were ready to move on to Monterosso.  Monterosso al Mare is the northernmost (and westernmost) and biggest of the villages, which  some find less charming. We liked it. It continued the themes of the smaller villages and, thanks to Antonella, we found some good things missing from the others.  Hillside homes nestled between  the vineyards and olive groves, a big beach and a delicious lunch at an outdoor cafe are added to the pastel buildings, cobblestone streets, beautiful harbor and lovely church easily rivaled the other villages, too. There's also a tour boat that ferries visitors to the other villages (except  Corniglia, which doesn't have a harbor). 

Joe

European Adventure - Cinque Terre - Vernazza, Italy

Saturday, May 25th  

Met "Tours by Locals" guide, Antonella, to show us the remaining Cinque Terre villages. She easily          guided us through the train boarding process and unloaded us at Vernazza, "the best village". Vernazza was, if possible, more spectacular and beautiful than Riomaggiore. Antonella took a  sharp right turn up a narrow alley and we were in a wonderland of ancient houses and shops.  Looking up, the colorful upper stories almost blocked out the sky. We came out high above the  town center, tiny beach and harbor on a walkway festooned with "lovers' locks" and giving us a view of the vineyards clinging to the hills above the town and the placid waters of the Ligurian Sea, where the cafes got their wonderful seafood. We came down a different path, visited a beautiful old church, had coffee and pastry and, of course bought t-shirts and other souvenirs.  

Joe

European Adventure - La Spezia, Italy

Friday, May 24th 

Checked out of Il Villino after a good breakfast.   Drove over to La Spezia on the Ligurian Sea. The drive is far more scenic than the one into Bologna. green, open country with red poppies, yellow broom and lavender wildflowers line the  roads and coat the hills. Little brick villages with stone churches on hilltops and little valleys like in a storybook. This changed as we neared La Spezia.  

Checked into the 5 Terre Lodge on a busy highway and had to go 5 blocks down and up a hill and through an electric gate to park the car but we weren't that surprised. We were met by a bubbling young hostess named Margherita(?), She was delighted we were there and assured us our stay would be memorable and comfortable. Well, it was immediately memorable, as the newly refurbished rooms had a few shakedown problems but, looking back, it was comfortable, too.   Margherita knew where everything was in La Spezia* and her recommendations were spot on. Her mother also did laundry, which we had been collecting up to this point.   (whew!) 

Lunched at pizza restaurant and had the best pizza. It will live forever in my memory! 

Train to Riomaggiore, the first village of the legendary Cinque Terre (chink wuh TARE uh).  After figuring out how to board the train, we got off at the first stop, Riomaggiore. * We entered  through a dramatic, covered walkway, lined with mosaics, to a more dramatic, cliffside village of weathered stone walkways, walls and buildings painted in alternating pastel colors to gave the carnival atmosphere we had seen in the travelogues. Ancient stone alleys and walkways mixed, without apology, with newer paved and flagstone streets. This is a living town, not a museum! I  Ventured out along the rugged, lava cliffs on a network of homemade walkways overlooking the  dark, clear water taking gorgeous pictures  everywhere I turned. We finally boarded the train back to La Spezia, frantic to come back the next day and see the other villages.      

Joe

* Notes: La Spezia is a grimy seaport town but it is the gateway to the Cinque Terra villages (the reason to be here)  The villages, from south to north, are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso (del Mare).

European Adventure -Bologna, Italy

Thursday, May 23rd 

Taste of Bologna hosted by local cuisine guide, Sara. We met at Piazza Maggiore and went for coffee and tries at Bologna's best coffee shop where we learned all about coffee. We then visited a pasta shop and saw various products being made, and actually made some ourselves.  Went to the central produce market and a few meat shops, Sara had collected everything for our lunch and we went to a family bar where we could use their tables if we bought their beverages.  After a great lunch, the tour was over, but Sara told us one more secret. Bologna used to have canals, like Venice, and they did away with all but one which was only known to a few locals. Well, you know Sara... she blabbed the directions to us and we trotted right over and took pictures and  now you know  about it, too! Oh, well, this was a great learning and eating experience. (We were Pam’s guests for this amazing experience - THANK YOU PAM!)

Stopped off for gelato and ran to jump on the Hop On - Hop Off bus for a quick city overview. Did we see a view? 

Joe

European Adventure - Bologna, Italy

Wednesday, May 22nd 

Checked out of Hotel Diana after a nice breakfast.   

Drive to Bologna (bo LOAN ya) which is less picturesque but neat and businesslike.  

Checked into Il Villino Casa per Ferie (hotel?) which was a gated facility on a hill near downtown.  The hotel is an old villa that doubles as some sort of occupational rehab for ladies.  Lovely location, gardens and rooms as well as public rooms throughout the estate. 

Drove downtown to a public parking structure to walk around Piazza Maggiore. 

Joe

European Adventure - Ravenna, Italy

Tuesday, May 21st 

Hotel Breakfasts were even better than Rome with our host taking some special requests.   

 Taxi to Europcar to rent a lovely Audi mid-size for the rest of our Italy itinerary.  

 Drive to Ravenna, on the Adriatic coast. Lots of farming and industry to see.  

 Check into Hotel Diana in Ravenna after finding parking structure in back. *  

Walk to outdoor cafe for cappelletti (hotel owner, Phillip (?), says it's the bomb!) 

 Mosaics are Ravenna's specialty along streets, churches, historic buildings, and museums.   

 Basilica di San Vitale was open and we viewed a gorgeous old church. 

Joe 

* Notes: Parking was always an adventure. Always how and where ask when making the reservation.

European Adventure - Florence, Italy

Walk around Florence (Firenze) from the piazza outside our front door. Ponte Vecchio, over the  Arno River, contains all the luxury leather, jewelry and fashion shops found on Rodeo Drive (great window shopping). Museums abound with the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo and  other specialties from the 2,000 years of Florentine history. Every way you look is a postcard. It's hard to believe it turned out to be so beautiful without some master plan.  Food continued the same high quality, convenience and variety we got used to in Rome.  

Joe